Searching for Natural Plants with Antimelanogenesis and Antityrosinase Properties for Cosmeceutical or Nutricosmetics Applications: A Systematic Review

Tung, Xin Yee and Yip, Jia Qi and Gew, Lai Ti * (2023) Searching for Natural Plants with Antimelanogenesis and Antityrosinase Properties for Cosmeceutical or Nutricosmetics Applications: A Systematic Review. ACS Omega, 8 (37). pp. 33115-33201. ISSN 2470-1343

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Abstract

Excessive UV radiation (UVR) exposure has been shown in studies to be a major risk factor for most melanomas, causing premature skin aging as well as immune system suppression due to the increased production of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) during the melanogenesis process. Although several compounds with antioxidant and antityrosinase activities are widely used in the cosmetic industry, like kojic acid, hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, and arbutin, their use has been limited due to their adverse effects on the skin and cytotoxic issues. Recently, attempts have been made to develop new natural skin-lightening products by using plant extracts that are less toxic and exhibit numerous biological properties with great market demand. In this study, information on the depigmentation effects of various natural plant species was gathered from the SCOPUS database according to the PRISMA guidelines. A total of 414 records were retrieved, and finally, 76 articles were included in the qualitative synthesis by fulfilling all the inclusion criteria. In this review, we discuss the extraction methods and biological assays of 75 highly potential plant species, including the olive, yuzu, longan, and lotus. We concluded that the use of natural plants as skin-whitening agents is highly effective as there is a significant correlation between the content of polyphenolic compounds, antimelanogenesis, antityrosinase, and antioxidant activities. However, it is worth noting that the use of extraction methods or types of solvents is very important in determining the biological activities of plants.

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